barbarian days a surfing life

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Barbarian Days

Author : William Finnegan
ISBN : 9780698163744
Genre : Biography & Autobiography
File Size : 67. 81 MB
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**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** *Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List* A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writer Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whitesonly gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a Hawaiian surfer. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. He and a buddy, their knapsacks crammed with reef charts, bushwhack through Polynesia. They discover, while camping on an uninhabited island in Fiji, one of the world’s greatest waves. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he becomes an improbable anthropologist: unpicking the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little understood art. Today, Finnegan’s surfing life is undiminished. Frantically juggling work and family, he chases his enchantment through Long Island ice storms and obscure corners of Madagascar.

On A Wave

Author : Thad Ziolkowski
ISBN : 087113845X
Genre : Poetry
File Size : 40. 57 MB
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Describes the life of a poet who uses surfing and the healing power of the ocean to escape his problems, including his parent's divorce and his new stepfather, until a tragedy changes his life.


Author : Peter Heller
ISBN : 9781439171813
Genre : Biography & Autobiography
File Size : 51. 65 MB
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Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave— that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder—in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits. As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.

The Encyclopedia Of Surfing

Author : Matt Warshaw
ISBN : 0156032511
Genre : Reference
File Size : 44. 80 MB
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A pop culture reference of surfing in America today contains 1,500 alphabetical entries and three hundred illustrations to review the activity's most significant contributors, events, equipment, culture, and history. Reprint.

Welcome To Paradise Now Go To Hell

Author : Chas Smith
ISBN : 9781922231291
Genre : True Crime
File Size : 79. 22 MB
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Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell, is surfer and former war reporter Chas Smith’s wild and unflinching look at the high-stakes world of surfing on Oahu’s North Shore – a riveting, often humorous, account of beauty, greed, danger, and crime. For two months every winter, when Pacific storms make landfall, swarms of mainlanders, Brazilians, Australians, and Europeans flock to Oahu’s paradisiacal North Shore in pursuit of some of the greatest waves on earth for surfing’s Triple Crown competition. Chas Smith reveals how this influx transforms a sleepy, laid-back strip of coast into a lawless, violent, drug-addled, and adrenaline-soaked mecca. Smith captures this exciting and dangerous place where locals, outsiders, the surf industry, and criminal elements clash in a fascinating look at class, race, power, money, and crime, set within one of the most beautiful places on earth. The result is a breathtaking blend of crime and adventure that captures the allure and wickedness of this idyllic golden world. “Love him or hate him, he’s the most stylish writer [surfing] has seen for decades.” – Fred Pawle, The Australian “Absolutely the most entertaining surf book in years, a breathless adrenalized romp. More importantly, it’s a jaw-dropping introduction to Smith’s greatest – and most promising – literary creation, himself.” – Dan Duane, author of Caught Inside: A Surfer's Year on the California Coast

Surf Science

Author : Tony Butt
ISBN : 0824828917
Genre : Sports & Recreation
File Size : 75. 9 MB
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Have you ever wondered where waves come from? What makes every one different, why some peel nicely and others just close out? Why, some days, waves come in sets of six and others in sets of three, and what factors affect the behavior of a surfing break? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its second edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks and will help you learn how to predict surf. You don't need a scientific background to read it--just curiosity and a fascination for waves.

The History Of Surfing

Author : Matt Warshaw
ISBN : 9780811856003
Genre : History
File Size : 21. 7 MB
Format : PDF
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Presents a history of surfing and and the culture it has spawned.

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