dandies fashion and finesse in art and culture

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Author : Susan Fillin-Yeh
ISBN : 9780814726969
Genre : Art
File Size : 38. 45 MB
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If journalism is the first draft of history, then independent journalists are surely its most daring composers. Along such celebrated and high-profile figures as Christiane Amanpour and Wolf Blitzer, there exists a stratum of journalistsself-employed, working under dire conditions, and with minimal resourceswho often place themselves at ground zero of world events. In this gripping account, Anthony Collings takes us into the world of independent journalists, and the daily challenges they face confronting dictators, hostile military, and narcoterrorists. Unfettered by any ties to those in positions of power, these guerrilla journalists are often the first on a storywhether reporting on corruption in Mexico, organized crime in Russia, or sexual scandal in the Middle Eastand accordingly face the brunt of their subject's wrath. Collings, who has himself been held captive while on assignment, here focuses less on those nations in which the press is either largely free (such as the U.S. or Western European democracies) or aggressively restricted (as in China), and more on those "battleground countries" where the eventual outcome of the struggle between state and fourth estate remains unclear. Relying on interviews, professional contacts, and his own experiences, Collings explores the dilemmas and strategies of journalists who persevere in the face of war, repressive governments, and criminal aggression, with particular emphasis on the role of the Internet. At a time when journalism is increasingly a profession under siege, Words of Fire forces into the spotlight a more positive side of the profession, those who pursue journalism not for profit or fame but as a personal crusade.

A Cultural History Of Dress And Fashion In The Modern Age

Author : Alexandra Palmer
ISBN : 9781350114067
Genre : History
File Size : 29. 24 MB
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Over the last century there has been a complete transformation of the fashion system. The unitary top-down fashion cycle has been replaced by the pulsations of multiple and simultaneous styles, while the speed of global production and circulation has become ever faster and more complex. Running in tandem, the development of artificial fibres has revolutionized the composition of clothing, and the increased focus on youth, sexuality, and the body has radically changed its design. From the 1920s flapper dress to debates over the burkini, fashion has continued to be deeply involved in society's larger issues. Drawing on a wealth of visual, textual and object sources and illustrated with 100 images, A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Modern Age presents essays on textiles, production and distribution, the body, belief, gender and sexuality, status, ethnicity, and visual and literary representations to illustrate the diversity and cultural significance of dress and fashion in the period.

Fashion Media

Author : Djurdja Bartlett
ISBN : 9780857853097
Genre : Design
File Size : 49. 46 MB
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The fashion media is in the midst of deep social and technological change. Including a broad range of case studies, from fashion plates to fashion films, and from fashion magazines to fashion blogs, this ground-breaking book provides an up-to-date examination of the role and significance of this field. Winner of the PCA/ACA Ray and Pat Browne Award for Best Edited Collection, Fashion Media includes chapters written by international scholars covering topics from historic magazine cultures and contemporary digital innovations to art and film, exploring themes such as gender, ethnicity, design, taste and authorship. Highlighting the complexity of processes that bind design, design, technology, society and identity together, Fashion Media will be of be essential reading for students of fashion studies, cultural studies, visual culture studies, design history, communications and art and design practice and theory.

Cosmopolitan Style

Author : Rebecca L. Walkowitz
ISBN : 9780231510530
Genre : Literary Criticism
File Size : 69. 77 MB
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In this broad-ranging and ambitious intervention in the debates over the politics, ethics, and aesthetics of cosmopolitanism, Rebecca L. Walkowitz argues that modernist literary style has been crucial to new ways of thinking and acting beyond the nation. While she focuses on modernist narrative, Walkowitz suggests that style conceived expansively as attitude, stance, posture, and consciousness helps to explain many other, nonliterary formations of cosmopolitanism in history, anthropology, sociology, transcultural studies, and media studies. Walkowitz shows that James Joyce, Joseph Conrad, Virginia Woolf, Salman Rushdie, Kazuo Ishiguro, and W. G. Sebald use the salient features of literary modernism in their novels to explore different versions of transnational thought, question moral and political norms, and renovate the meanings of national culture and international attachment. By deploying literary tactics of naturalness, triviality, evasion, mix-up, treason, and vertigo, these six authors promote ideas of democratic individualism on the one hand and collective projects of antifascism or anti-imperialism on the other. Joyce, Conrad, and Woolf made their most significant contribution to this "critical cosmopolitanism" in their reflection on the relationships between narrative and political ideas of progress, aesthetic and social demands for literalism, and sexual and conceptual decorousness. Specifically, Walkowitz considers Joyce's critique of British imperialism and Irish nativism; Conrad's understanding of the classification of foreigners; and Woolf's exploration of how colonizing policies rely on ideas of honor and masculinity. Rushdie, Ishiguro, and Sebald have revived efforts to question the definitions and uses of naturalness, argument, utility, attentiveness, reasonableness, and explicitness, but their novels also address a range of "new ethnicities" in late-twentieth-century Britain and the different internationalisms of contemporary life. They use modernist strategies to articulate dynamic conceptions of local and global affiliation, with Rushdie in particular adding playfulness and confusion to the politics of antiracism. In this unique and engaging study, Walkowitz shows how Joyce, Conrad, and Woolf developed a repertoire of narrative strategies at the beginning of the twentieth century that were transformed by Rushdie, Ishiguro, and Sebald at the end. Her book brings to the forefront the artful idiosyncrasies and political ambiguities of twentieth-century modernist fiction.

Encyclopedia Of Clothing And Fashion

Author : Valerie Steele
ISBN : 0684313952
Genre : Design
File Size : 71. 7 MB
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"Steele, director of the Fashion Institute of Technology Museum, has crafted, with the help of 325 contributors, an authoritative introduction to fashion, the industry, and the issues that hve defined the field. Some 640 articles describe the colorful facets of couture and textiles, from fabrics of chintz, corduroy, and feathers to such garb as aprons, bikinis, and prison dress. There are color plates and nearly 600 black-and-white illustrations. Back matter includes a comprehensive index, a timeline, and a topical outline."--"Reference that rocks," American Libraries, May 2005.

Performing The Dandy

Author : José Ignacio Badenes
ISBN : 1931948070
Genre : Literary Criticism
File Size : 66. 66 MB
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Jose Ignacio Badenes is a Jesuit priest who is Professor of Spanish Language and Literature and Comparative Literatures in the Department of Modern Languages and Literatures at Loyola Marymount University in Los Angeles, California.

The Cut Of His Coat

Author : Brent Alan Shannon
ISBN : STANFORD:36105114404945
Genre : Business & Economics
File Size : 48. 20 MB
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The English middle class in the late nineteenth century enjoyed an increase in the availability and variety of material goods. With that, the visual markers of class membership and manly behavior underwent a radical change. In The Cut of His Coat: Men, Dress, and Consumer Culture in Britain, 1860 –1914, Brent Shannon examines familiar novels by authors such as George Eliot, Anthony Trollope, Thomas Hughes, and H. G. Wells, as well as previously unexamined etiquette manuals, period advertisements, and fashion monthlies, to trace how new ideologies emerged as mass-produced clothes, sartorial markers, and consumer culture began to change. While Victorian literature traditionally portrayed women as having sole control of class representations through dress and manners, Shannon argues that middle-class men participated vigorously in fashion. Public displays of their newly acquired mannerisms, hairstyles, clothing, and consumer goods redefined masculinity and class status for the Victorian era and beyond. The Cut of His Coat probes the Victorian disavowal of men’s interest in fashion and shopping to recover men’s significant role in the representation of class through self-presentation and consumer practices.

Bad Modernisms

Author : Douglas Mao
ISBN : UOM:39015063255619
Genre : Art
File Size : 20. 96 MB
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Modernism is hot again. At the dawn of the twenty-first century, poets and architects, designers and critics, teachers and artists are rediscovering the virtues of the previous centuryrs"s most vibrant cultural constellation. Yet this widespread embrace raises questions about modernismrs"s relation to its own success. Modernismrs"s "badness"-its emphasis on outrageous behavior, its elevation of negativity, its refusal to be condoned-seems essential to its power. But once modernism is accepted as "good" or valuable (as a great deal of modernist art now is), its status as a subversive aesthetic intervention seems undermined. The contributors toBad Modernismstease out the contradictions in modernismrs"s commitment to badness.Bad Modernismsthus builds on and extends the "new modernist studies," recent work marked by the application of diverse methods and attention to texts and artists not usually labeled as modernist. In this collection, these developments are exemplified by essays ranging from a reading of dandyism in 1920s Harlem as a performance of a "bad" black modernist imaginary to a consideration of Filipino American modernism in the context of anticolonialism. The contributors reconsider familiar figures-such as Virginia Woolf, D. H. Lawrence, Josef von Sternberg, Ludwig Wittgenstein, W. H. Auden, and Wyndham Lewis-and bring to light the work of lesser-known artists, including the writer Carlos Bulosan and the experimental filmmaker Len Lye. Examining cultural artifacts ranging from novels to manifestos, from philosophical treatises to movie musicals, and from anthropological essays to advertising campaigns, these essays signal the capaciousness and energy galvanizing the new modernist studies.Contributors. Lisa Fluet, Laura Frost, Michael LeMahieu, Heather K. Love, Douglas Mao, Jesse Matz, Joshua L. Miller, Monica L. Miller, Sianne Ngai, Martin Puchner, Rebecca L. Walkowitz

21st Century Dandy

Author : Christopher Breward
ISBN : UCSC:32106017262889
Genre : Dandies
File Size : 23. 74 MB
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Background; The British Council is Britain's international cultural relations organisation. Through its work in education, science, governance and the arts, the British Council aims to enhance perceptions of Britain as a creative and forward-looking nation and to challenge negative stereotypes. Art, Architecture & Design runs an international design programme of touring exhibitions, lectures, seminars and workshops with the purpose of extending the influence of British designers and encouraging the development of design elsewhere in the world. We advocate the value of design to business and government as part of our education and development activity and we contribute to the commercial promotion of British design. 21st Century Dandy will form part of the Design department programme for 2003. Target Audience; 21st Century Dandy will engage a young, general audience interested in fashion and international popular culture.The discursive content of the exhibition also aims to resonate with a specialist audience of fashion practitioners, museum curators, design journalists, the design education community (students and lecturers) - all of whom contribute to the discourse of contemporary design in which we need to sustain a profile for Britain. It will also interest garment manufacturers and retailers. The exhibition should resonate in particular in countries where menswear is equally invested with notions of national identity. The Exhibition That The Book Accompanies; Dandvism, the style and the philosophy, is uniquely British. The original dandy of 1800, George Bryan 'Beau' Brummell captured, in the turn of his cuff and the knot of his cravat, the studied irony and languor that defined his age. Brummell's preoccupation with pose and appearance was derided as the last gasp of aristocratic decadence, but in many ways he anticipated the modern era-a world of social mobility in which taste was privileged above birth and wealth.Dedicated to perfection in dress and the immaculate presentation of his body, Brummell's total control over his image finds its legacy in 21st century masculine dress styles in Britain. The tension between old and new, personal/individual and public, tradition and rebellion is just as pressing in contemporary British design language. 21st Century Dandy explores six sartorially self-conscious male types in contemporary British culture and illustrates the debt each owes to dandy philosophy. British menswear design in 2003 is at its most fertile and interesting since the Peacock Revolution in Carnaby Street in the 1960s, and it owes much to the British Iova of dressing up of ironic posturing - that Brummall practised so archetypically. The work of the designers, brands and manufacturing companies in our exhibition show how dandyism is at once an exclusive and democratic stance - democratic because it appears so easily attainable, but elusive in that so few succeed in getting it right. In reality, few British men could be easily categorised into one of our six types. The true dandy's guiding principle (individual style) rejects definition by type.But the dandy principles of exquisite beauty, quality and performance are as influential in British menswear design today as they were over 200 years ago; the cultural referentiality and material quality that characterises the best of British design could not find a better muse in the 21st century than the dandy. Section Divisions: Precis; 1. The Gentleman; A standard-bearer for quality, tradition and heritage, the Gentleman is the epitome of propriety. A Gentleman's wardrobe is detailed to perfection whilst appearing effortless. 2. Hoxton Dandy; Personifying the lifestyle/fashion/music/art nexus, the Hoxton Dandy is a media savvy neo-bohemien who parades ostentatious utilitarianism of his clothes, absinthe in hand, in the wide open spaces of Hoxton's galleries and bars. 3. Terrace Casual; The Terrace Casual's country clothes - hunting tweeds and golfing sweaters - actually

Willa Cather As Cultural Icon

Author : Guy Reynolds
ISBN : 0803260113
Genre : Literary Criticism
File Size : 44. 8 MB
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Volume 7 of the Cather Studies series explores Willa Cather’s iconic status and its problems within popular and literary culture. Not only are Cather’s own life and work subject to enshrinement, but as a writer, she herself often returned to the motifs of canonization and to the complex relationship between the onlooker and the idealized object. Through textual study of her published novels and her behind-the-scenes campaign and publicity writing in service of her novels, the reader comes to understand the extent to which, despite her legendary claims and commitment to privacy, Willa Cather helped to orchestrate her own iconic status.

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